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The Essence Of Direct Fuel Injection

by admin on Mar.24, 2009, under Car Maintenance, Car Tips

The Essence Of Direct Fuel Injection

Originally, gasoline engines solely used carburetors to prepare the air and gas mixture. However, the relative inaccuracy of this method has led to the development of direct fuel injection, resulting in a more efficient burn and lower emissions. Below, I’m going to explain how the system works as well as its pros and cons. It is likely that a greater number of vehicles will be built with this type of engine in the future, so it’s worthwhile to understand its operation.

How Direct Fuel Injection Works

In most gasoline-fueled cars, the engine operates on a four-stroke cycle. In a four-stroke engine, during the first step the intake valve opens and the cylinder is filled with a mixture of gas and air. Next, the valves close and the piston moves up, compressing the mixture. After that happens, ignition is triggered, sending the piston downwards in what is known as the power stroke. Lastly, the exhaust valve opens and the piston travels upward, forcing out the waste fumes.

In a carbureted vehicle, the fuel blend is mixed before entering the cylinder on the first stroke. With direct injection, the gas is sprayed into the cylinder while the air enters via the intake manifold.

Advantages

There are a number of benefits to a direct-injected engine. The primary advantages involve improved fuel economy and greater power output. Each burst of gasoline is precisely measured and timed by the onboard computer, translating into greater efficiency and less pollution. In addition, the ultra-fine droplets and even the dispersal created by the system has a cooling effect on the engine that increases power across the entire RPM band.

When it’s running, the computer is continually varying between different air-gas ratios to ensure the best performance. The three modes are “full power,” “ultra lean burn,” and “stoichiometric.” During a full power burn, the mixture is richer, enabling the car to accelerate faster and prevent knock. “Ultra lean burn” pushes the ratio as high as 65:1, providing emission reductions under low-stress situations. “Stoichometric” mode runs the engine at a 14.7:1 mixture, the optimum combination that ensures a 100% burn, used for moderate-stress situations.

Disadvantages

Unfortunately, direct injection systems are more expensive and complex to build, resulting in a concentration among high-performance cars and trucks. Another drawback to these systems is the component durability. The assembly must be able to handle high-pressure gasoline as well as the heat and pressure in the cylinder for extended periods of time. Furthermore, the assembly must be very accurate in order to direct the spray properly. This tight tolerance can also make the assembly unreliable, especially if the engine is routinely placed in high-stress situations or driven for long distances.

Even though prices currently remain relatively high for these systems, their improved performance and fuel efficiency is likely to spur their adoption in additional car models. Before long, carburetors will be a distant memory.

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Weighing The Decision To Trade In Your Used Car

by admin on Mar.10, 2009, under Cars

Weighing The Decision To Trade In Your Used Car

Auto parts are designed to last a lot longer than they used to. In the old days, it was common for a 10-year old vehicle to experience constant problems, requiring time, money, and patience. These days, the parts under the hood are more advanced and durable. With regular oil changes and minor maintenance, you might be able to drive 100,000 miles before noticing any problems.

That said, car parts fail over time. Transmissions slip, engines stall, and alternators fail. Spark plugs can go bad and your radiator might overheat with increasing frequency. The older your vehicle gets, the higher likelihood such problems will occur. At some point, you need to decide whether it’s smarter to get rid of your current ride and buy a new one. Below, we’ll explore the pros and cons of purchasing a new vehicle versus repairing your old one.

Advantages To Buying New

The biggest advantage to purchasing a new model is peace of mind. If you’re currently driving a vehicle that has 200,000 miles on it, you know what it’s like to worry about breaking down. A new model eliminates that concern. Another benefit is convenience. Not only will the ride be more comfortable (usually), but frequent trips to the local mechanic will no longer be necessary.

Safety is another factor to consider. New models have more advanced protective features. For example, electronic stability control and lane-change warning systems can have an enormous impact on the safety of you and your passengers.

Reasons To Keep And Repair Your Car

The main reason to keep your current car is that it’s less expensive to do so. Even though it doesn’t seem that way when you’re paying $2,000 for a rebuilt transmission, the long-term savings are significant. Keep in mind that the interest you’ll pay on a 5-year auto loan adds up to several thousands of dollars. Plus, the depreciation on a new car during the first 3 years guarantees a massive loss in value. Lastly, the burden of monthly payments has a lasting effect on your budget.

Looking Down The Road

There will come a time when the only viable option is to get rid of your current vehicle. You’ll find yourself visiting your mechanic every couple of weeks for another repair job. First, the engine; then, a blown head gasket; then, the timing belt. Eventually, it becomes more expensive to repair your jalopy than it would be to buy another car.

While purchasing a new vehicle has obvious advantages, don’t dismiss the idea of buying a used car. There are millions of owners who have carefully maintained their vehicles over time and are willing to accept a reasonable offer. If budget is an issue, buying used can be a fantastic way to find a bargain.

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What To Check When Your Car Won't Start – Part II

by admin on Nov.10, 2008, under Car Maintenance, Car Tips

What To Check When Your Car Won’t Start – Part II

There are plenty of parts under the hood that can prevent your car from starting. When any of them act up, locating the cause of the problem can be difficult. Last time, I described how the problem could potentially be with your battery, ignition switch, or a malfunctioning starter. Those parts are usually the easiest to check which is why mechanics often recommending checking them first.

But, let’s assume that your battery is fully-charged, and your starter and ignition switch are working properly. What else could be causing the issue? Today, I’ll describe a few more car parts that you should check while hunting for the problem.

The Ignition System

In most cases, the reason why your car won’t start is because the engine is not receiving an electrical current. Specifically, the spark is probably not being created. The next stop is your car’s ignition system. The first part of the system you’ll want to check is the ignition coil. Ideally, you should test it with a multimeter. As long as you know the resistance specs of your coil, you can use the multimeter to measure its ability to carry a current.

The next component to check is your car’s distributor cap. In my experience, the cap is seldom the problem. That said, it’s not uncommon for moisture to collect during the rainy season. It’s possible for this moisture to prevent the voltage transfer. Take the cap off and wipe it down to get rid of any moisture.

The Fuel System

By now, most of the easy parts have been checked. If you haven’t found the problem in your car’s ignition system, it’s likely in the fuel system. Checking the system completely will require taking you car to a repair shop. However, there are a few components that you can check at home. A lot of cars today have fuel injection systems. Before anything else, check all of the connections to make sure they’re snug. If they are, pressure test your fuel pump if you have the tools (most people don’t). If you don’t have the tools, a mechanic will need to do it.

Next, put your key in the ignition and put it in the “on” position. Then, use a circuit tester to measure whether the electrical current in the fuel pump is sufficient. If the tester identifies a current, the reason your car won’t start may be because of a bad pump relay. If you’ve checked all of those things without finding a problem, the fuel filter might be backed up or blocked. They’re inexpensive (usually under $20), so consider replacing it.

At this point, there’s very little else that you can diagnose at home. You probably won’t have the necessary tools you’ll need to check other components and parts. But, many of the issues that prevent cars from starting can be traced to the parts that I’ve described in this article and in the previous installment. If you can fix the problem on your own, you’ll save time and money.

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